Day 7 - Troopie Travels, Munupi Art, Golden lunch spots, good-byes and broken planes

We certainly packed a lot into our last day on the Tiwi Islands.  We took on the longest journey of all in the Troopie - travelling to the beautiful community of Pirlangimpi.  Home to Munupi arts, the Garden Point Stolen Generations and the famous Rioli football family.

We were welcomed like royalty to the Munupi Art centre where a number of artists proudly showed us their pieces.  Mrs Meibusch and Ryan were worried that their purchases would take them over the 10 kg limit on the plane home.  But more of planes later.

A visit to the Pirlangimpi Women's Centre with Sr Barbara

We then partook of the usual wonderful morning tea and lunch spread prepared by Mrs Ryan and Mrs Meibusch.  Bernard and Mark told us they could beat yesterday's picnic spots and they weren't wrong!  Here is the morning tea spot at Pirlangimpi.

And then here is lunch at a swimming spot just outside the community.

Following our time in this little patch of paradise we dropped Bernard back at the community of Nguiu for the last time.  There was some excitement in the air as we got to say good bye to Tahlia and her little sister Tiara as well as Bernard and Lynette in the local post office.

For the final time we drove back to Tiwi College and packed out gear ready to board the plane back to Darwin.  There was some sadness in the camp with a few of the girls quietly hoping that we could stay longer.  When the plane arrived there was a little apprehension at the size of it.  We put that to one side and listened attentively to the safety instructions.  You need that whistle on your life jacket if you ditch in croc infested waters!
And then...... the prayers were answered.  The starter motor on one of the engines would not play ball.  A second and third plane were sent from Darwin with mechanics and other pilots - but there was no joy!

Two local Tiwi men came to the runway and said the ancestors wnated us to stay!  And then we bundled into a second plane and headed over the water.  There were some quiet tears shed as we watched the sun set over these magnificent islands.  There have been eyes opened, hearts touched and lessons learnt by us all.

Day Six - Milikapiti, Cute Kids, Chocolate Crackles, Shared Meals, Snake Handling, and Possum Hunting

We got back in the trusty troopy today.  This time we headed to the second largest community on the islands - Milikapiti.  We packed up the cooking recipes and ingredients and headed to the local primary school where we conducted four mini master chef sessions.  The children were patient, excited, interested and cute.  No eyes were taken out with sharp knives and most of the final product seemed to taste good!

We then toured the local art centre where we learnt the Tiwi Creation story.  Very powerful with a number of similarities to the Christian Creation story.

Prior to this we had lunch at an amazing beach scene.  It was a case of look but don't touch with box jelly fish and crocs part of the danger.

We headed back to Tiwi College via an almighty rain shower which made the roads and inside the troopy quite slippery! 

Georgie (the teacher - has a son Jonas who is enthralled by the Tiwi wildlife.  The girls got to do some snake handling.  I am sure that was in the risk assessment!

Following this is was a game of basket ball with the Tiwi girls and some bouncing on the trampoline.

We ended the night with a shared meal, some Tiwi dancing in which the girls danced their dreaming with us and finally a .... possum hunt.  The St Ursula's Girls almost fully participated - but drew the line at eating the fire roasted mammals.

It was truly a privilege to share the evening with the local community of Tiwi College.

Day Five - Masterchef and Getting to Know Tiwi College

This was the first day that we didn't go anywhere.  No dusty bumpy roads - just the beautiful surrounds of Tiwi College.

We started the day by meeting the wonderful Georgie who teaches the Senior and Junior Girls in the literacy area.  Georgie is doing a PhD looking at Aboriginal Education across every state in Australia.  But more than that she is great fun and had all of the girls Tiwi and St Ursula's on the floor dancing and interacting and basically getting to know each other a little better.

We had a tour of the Tiwi Family Group Homes and once again they compared favourably with mainland boarding conditions.  We met a wonderful couple David and Judy (from Toowoomba) who look after one of the boys homes.  We also met inspirational Erin, Joy, Steph and Anthony who are houseparents to the Tiwi young women.

It was then football central as we visited the Clontarf Football Academy centre.  This is a club house where the boys can hang out.  Clontarf is a national programme using football as a vehicle to engage young Aboriginal boys with education and employment.

In the afternoon we ran Masterchef for the Senior and Junior Tiwi Girls.  There was a healthy beef burger, canneloni and apple and pear desserts on offer.  While we cooked some of the Tiwi girls showed us some of their style with dance moves.

All in all a great day was had.

Day 4 - Finding things in the mangroves, the landing of the Dutch and the beauty of Tarracumbi

Today we started with a Northern Australian perspective on history.  We travelled to Carslake - the place where over 300 years ago the Dutch landed on Melville Island.  We saw some of the Pukamani poles used to celebrate the lives of some of Lynette's family who have passed away and are buried on the shore of this vast bay.

We then sat with Bernard as he shared some of his wisdom with us.  Much of it came down to two questions.  Who is your family and where do you come from?  He spoke of the Tiwi family system and challenged us to get in touch with our own elders and family history. 

The player comfort level in the back of the Troopie is not always high - but our minds have been taken off things with the playfulness and friendship of Tahlia.  I think a little of our hearts will stay in Nguiu tomorrow morning.  She has said that she wants to go to St Ursula's when she grows up and then come and teach at Tiwi College - on her own country!  All at 6 years of age.

We then set off in the footsteps of Bernard in search of Mangrove Worms.  We struggled to keep up with this sprightly 72 year old!  It was truly special to be one with nature with Bernard.  Not easy but special nevertheless.  Mrs Ryan managed to bury a shoe a metre below some very thick and smelly mud.  Bec gets the courage and bravery award for recovering said footware!

Following our mud larking - it was time to clean up in the crystal waters of Tarracumbi.  The girls used the local ochre for some on the spot beauty treatment.  We finished the day with some buffalo spotting.  Nothing yet - but tomorrow is another day...

Day Three - the Saturday Nguiu Fete, the Frangipani Cafe, Sr Anne, Footy Finals, Dancing on the beach and Barra for Tea!

Saturday started well and then just got better!  For the first time we didn't have to be out of bed before 5.30 am.  That's a bonus!  We had breakfast in our new surrounds (Hospitality Camp at Tiwi College) and then headed down the track to the annual Nguiu fete.  Just getting there was an adventure - aboard the tinny that links Bathurst and Melville Islands.

Upon arrival we got to work.  Some used their ample acting skills to scare the life out of young Tiwi children in the haunted house!  Others worked the tables at the Frangipani Cafe.  There was a festival atmosphere - with footy finals fever in the air and everything from Bollywood on Bathurst Island to the trusty chocolate wheel spinning.  Over $14000 raised for the local Catholic Primary school in  just three hours.  Not bad!

The girls did such a good job the children were crying in the haunted house as soon as the door closed behind them!  Following the fete we toured through the local museum which is kept by the legendary Sr Anne.  Sr Anne has been on the Tiwi islands for more than 50 years and shared her wisdom and passion for the Tiwi with us all. 

We then headed back to Melville Island but not before we stood in front of the Radio Shack where Fr McGrath warned of the Japanese bombing of Darwin on the 19th February 1942.  Darwin didn't heed the warning and the rest is history.

On our trip back to Melville Island we encountered a family group with their pet possum!  We also had the wonderful privilege of Bernard, Lynette and Tahlia join us.  Tahlia has stolen the girls hearts and I fear there will be tears on Monday morning when she leaves us to return to school.  In the afternoon we headed to South Beach where Tahlia led the girls in some of the local dances.  Her dance is the Shark Dance which is the dance for the country on which Tiwi College stands.

The night was then upon us and football fever took over.  Mrs Ryan (with some encouragement from Mark) was keen to watch the Rugby World Cup.  Bernard as a proud Tiwi man needed to observe his reigious obligation (AFL) and watch the semi-final between Carlton and West Coast.  And in the midst of this a young man named Jason dropped in to gift us with some huge Barramundi fillets which he had just caught.  Don't like to boast - but possibly the best fish we have ever eaten!

Hawks Fan in 2008

Hawks Fan in 2011

Three years ago I cam across a Tiwi man at the annual fete.  He had a Hawthorn flag draped over him.  I asked if I could take his photo and that year the Hawks went onto win the flag.  Three years later - I met the same man.  Once again he agreed for his photo to be taken - hoping it is a sign the Hawks will fly in 2011.  Until the next post...

Happy Birthday Eilish, The Family Van, Sweetheart and the bombing of Darwin

Well in a short time there is plenty to report.  Eilish even celebrated a birthday today!  Firstly and mainly we are all safely now on Melville Island.  We are well and the family trip is travelling along nicely.  Family? What family I hear you ask?  Well we were having trouble gelling as a group and then along came the ..... Family Van.

Suddenly we felt just like a family!  Highlights so far have included - standing on the spot where a bomb landed on Darwin in February of 1942, travelling to the Tiwi Islands aboard the Arafura Pearl, visiting the Northern Territory Museum with incredible Indigenous art, Sweetheart the Crocodile and the Cyclone Tracey experience.  The wall really did shake!

We won't mentione the cold showers Mark organised - but we can mention watching the sunset over the water as we dined at the trailer-boat club in Darwin.  We became intimately acquainted with our new home away from home - 'the troopie'.  We found a new way to do grocery shopping - collecting it from a plane and then finding what is ours and we revelled in the beauty of a very special waterhole.

Tomorrow brings the Nguiu Catholic Primary School fete with the serving of cappucinos to very happy Hawthorn fans.  Yes we are now well and truly in AFL country!

We spent a little time today in the Nguiu community.  As part of this we visited the Pwanga Women's co-operative.  This clotmaterial printing and design  business has been running for over forty years with the backbone being local strong Tiwi women.

After two five o'clock starts tomorrow we sleep in until... 7 am!!  Woo Hoo

Until we blog again!

On our way!!

Well we are now heading North!  A smooth ride to the airport (thanks to Chris!) and now we head for the warmth of Darwin.  If you keep checking in every few days I will try and keep you in the loop with our adventures!

Mark